Trail of the Wolf

Montelupo Albese sits at the divergence of two Langhe identities. To the south lies the Alta Langa (“high” Langa), a country of forests and hazelnut groves; to the north lies the more famous vineyard-covered hills of the Langhe, home to the “king and queen” of wines, Barolo and Barbaresco.

Montelupo, located just 15 minutes south of Alba, touches the edge of that famous wine region, yet does not quite reach the southern higher elevations where the Piemonte Hazelnut IGP is favored for cultivation. Great wines are yet produced here, but instead of a Nebbiolo-centered wine culture, this is Dolcetto d’Alba territory.

Park your car in the main Piazza Castello at the top of the town, where the Trattoria in Piazza is located. Stop here for lunch or dinner to enjoy traditional Piemontese food, but call ahead of time to make sure they’re open. From the piazza, admire the view over the Langhe, the hills of Barbaresco to the north, and Asti and Moscato territory to the east. Then, before embarking on your adventure into the hills, stroll through the streets to spot all 28 murals painted on the sides of buildings. Each one features a well-known local or cross-cultural folk tale that features the wolf. Local artists began painting these scenes in 2011 and continue to add to the delightful collection every year. The choice of protagonist for these paintings is not random: the name “Montelupo” can be loosely translated to “wolf hill” in honor of the Canis lupus italicus population that once roamed the territory.

The Trail of the Wolf (Sentiero del Lupo) happily follows this theme, with metal silhouette signposts of wolves to guide the way through vineyard and forest. The loop may be shortened or lengthened according to your hiking level, and signs are easy to follow.

Begin at either end of this loop, taking a left or right down the central road from the piazza. We recommend you follow Via Ballerina to the south, heading left from the piazza and then taking a sharp right to travel a clockwise loop: best for wine tasters who would like to visit wineries at the end. Alternatively, begin in the other direction for a less difficult hike, as the hillside here is much steeper and easier to descend than it is to climb.

The Trail of the Wolf passes through hazelnut groves, forests of mulberry, elderberry, and acacia, and among vineyards, with stunning views over the Langhe territory at many different lookout points. It winds through tiny, half-abandoned villages festooned with vibrant roses, wild iris, and cherry trees dripping with fruit in the springtime. Borgata Brantegna, located a bit before the halfway point (if taking the route clockwise), has charming examples of traditional Piemontese architecture in its old farmhouses and chapel. If you need a break from the walk and sunshine, there is a natural spring located off the side of the trail between Cascina Bormida and Borgata Brantegna called the “Fonte Caudana.” Keep an eye out for it amid the hazelnut groves and turn at a well-preserved ciàbot, or old brick toolshed; a partially hidden sign points the way.

The last part of the Trail of the Wolf (always clockwise) dips down to a cool glade with a trickling stream before climbing steeply up. Here, along the northern section of the trail, is where the vineyards and wineries are concentrated. Many of these vines are Dolcetto, but you will pass by Chardonnay and Arneis on this route, as well. Montelupo and neighboring Rodello produce some of the best expressions of Dolcetto d’Alba there are. Note the plants growing at the ends of the rows: while rose bushes are traditionally planted to help warn vine growers of diseases, here, instead, are planted artichokes.